The last time I had dinner at 22 Washington St. in downtown Oxford was more than a year ago, when it was called Jonmarx Steak & Seafood. With something of an haute cuisine menu and too-high prices, it didn't last long.

The new occupant should fare better.

Not only is its name -- the Ox Bar & Grill -- easier to remember but its menu and prices are also crowd-pleasers.

That's obvious every weekend when its spacious booths and handsome high-tops are jammed, and its young servers are zooming back and forth with big trays of big food -- from wings, rings, nachos and burgers to pizzas, ribs and a steak or two.

Exotic fare, it's not. But it's the right formula for a place that blends suburban sports bar with casually upscale family restaurant. And with most burgers and sandwiches priced around $8 or less with fries, folks can afford to get out and indulge a little.

If there's one thing you shouldn't miss, it's the superb beer-battered onion rings that puff up light, super-crisp and dark golden brown. They're not too greasy, and the serving is so large, everyone at the table said wow when the platter arrived.

In a case of bad timing, though, we had also ordered Sparty's Calamari, and the side-by-side comparison was unfortunate. The squid's coating was soft and the color of undercooked flour; we did not enjoy it.

Other starters earned a split decision, too: Thumbs up to the meaty, flavorful Buffalo-roasted chicken wings, although they weren't as "smokin' " as the menu said. I'd skip the deep-fried Wahoo Chicken Fritters, which were thin and dry.

The menu's 11 sandwiches run the gamut from a Monte Cristo to corned beef and Swiss.

The Chicken Rajun Cajun -- mildly flavored, despite its name -- featured a nicely cooked blackened chicken breast topped with sautéed onions and cheddar. It came with a side of Devil's Dip, which starts out sweet but eventually builds to give you a little heat. The Philly cheesesteak sandwich had thinly sliced beef, peppers, onions and provolone -- but that didn't make it a real cheesesteak.

The Ox Burger -- a half-pound of Certified Angus Beef with Swiss and thick-cut bacon -- came with lettuce and tomato on a hearty kaiser roll; hot, crisp fries were served on the side.

Do try the hand-stretched pizzas with flavorful crusts and excellent toppings. I had the Ultimate: pepperoni, sliced Italian sausage (though the menu said hand-pinched), sliced mushrooms and onions, Parmesan cheese, and lots of fresh, whole basil leaves. It was even very good reheated the next day.

Given a choice of the Ox's pizzas, burgers or sandwiches, go for the pizza.

But don't discount the entrées. I tried only two of the 14 choices -- the baby-back ribs and the 12-ounce rib-eye -- but both exceeded expectations.

The ribs ($16.49 and $10.49) were so tender, the bones slipped out of the flavorful meat, while the sauce was a terrific blend of sweet and spicy.

And for $16.99, the flavor and tenderness of the steak, which the menu called dry-aged choice grade, was pretty impressive. The price, by the way, included breadsticks, a salad and choice of mashed red-skins, french fries, Spanish rice or spaghetti with tomato sauce.

The Ox should have had fewer misses, but its hits were bigger and more important -- and you have to factor in its impressively modest prices. It's what every small town needs: a stylish, lively spot to meet for casual, affordable food.

Contact SYLVIA RECTOR: 313-222-5026 or

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